300C, 300C-4, 300L, 300L - 4
IMPORTANT: THIS ALARM IS INTENDED FOR INSTALLATION BY QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS ONLY.
READ BOTH THIS MANUAL AND THE OWNERS MANUAL COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION
- Make sure all electrical connections are securely soldered
- Do not run wires too tightly Allow some slack in case the wires are accidentally pulled by someone servicing the vehicle in the future Remember that wires may shrink or break due to impact, heat, and so on
- Do not allow wires to rub against sharp edges which could cause short circuits Use grommets when wires are run through holes in the car body or firewall
- Protect and hide wires with flexible tubing or by wrapping with electrical tape if possible Ideally, the wires should be indistinguishable from the vehicle's factory wiring
- Mount all plastic components away from sources of extreme heat such as the exhaust manifold or turbocharger to prevent melting Also mount all components away from areas that receive water directly
- Mount all components in such a way that they do not impair or interfere with the normal operation of the car's moving parts
- Mount all components and run all wires so they cannot be easily reached from underneath the vehicle
BEFORE YOU START, DON'T FORGET
- Ask the customer where to install the LED It should be visible from the right and left sides of the car It should not be exposed to direct sunlight
- Ask the customer where to install the pushbutton switch It should be inconspicuous, yet easy to reach in case of an emergency
- Turn the dome light OFF, or remove the domel ight fuse, to save car battery power during the installation (But turn the domel ight ON or replace the fuse before testing using current sensing)
THIS MANUAL OFFERS GENERAL GUIDELINES ONLY. INSTALLATION WILL VARY FROM VEHICLE TO VEHICLE. SECO-LARM IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES OR DAMAGES WHICH RESULT FROM INCORRECT INSTALLATION OF THIS ALARM SYSTEM.
DISCONNECT THE FUSES FROM THE ALARM'S RED AND ORANGE WIRES BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION PLUG BACK IN ONLY AFTER THE INSTALLATION IS DONE AND CHECKED.
TEST ALL WIRES CAREFULLY BEFORE CUTTING OR SPLICING. TO AVOID DAMAGING THE VEHICLE'S ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT, USE A TEST METER, NOT A TEST LIGHT.
IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ANTI-THEFT RADIO OR AN AIR BAG, DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
MOUNTING THE ALARM BRAIN
The alarm's main brain, which controls all the alarm's functions, is very sophisticated, and care must be taken when mounting Note
- DO NOT MOUNT THE ALARM BRAIN UNTIL ALL CONNECTIONS HAVE BEEN MADE AND THOROUGHLY TESTED.
- Do not mount the alarm brain where it is exposed to extreme heat or moisture DO NOT MOUNT IT IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
- Mount the alarm brain out-of-sight under the dashboard Securely tie-wrap it in place so it cannot be easily reached by thieves or disconnected by accident
- Make sure the alarm brain does not disrupt the normal operation of any moving parts under the dash
- Do not mount in front of the heater, defroster, or air conditioning ducts
- RF considerations - Transmitter range will vary For greatest range
- Metal blocks RF transmission, while glass and plastic have no effect . The higher the alarm brain is mounted (the closer to the windshield), and the farther from metal, the greater the transmitter range Never mount in the trunk
- Do not mount near pagers, CB radios, car horns, or air horns
- Do not lengthen or cut the black antenna wire or mount the antenna wire to the metal car body, unless in an area of excessive RF interference
- RF interference - If there are difficulties arming and disarming in areas of strong RF interference, such as near an airport or a military base, tape the antenna wire to the car's metal body, or roll or fold it (do not cut it) This may reduce range, but it should reduce arming and disarming difficulties
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN ENFORCER 300C AND ENFORCER 300L
The only difference between the two models of the Enforcer 300 series is in the type of transmitter used
- The Enforcer 300C uses SECO-LARM's patented CODEBUMP code-hopping algorithm
- The Enforcer 300L uses fixed code transmitters
NOTE -The transmitters all come pre-coded by the factory
1. 8-wire connector, RED WIRE (5A fuse, to +12VDC)
Remove the 5A fuse, and connect this wire to constant (un switched) source of +1 2VDC. Connect directly to the vehicle's fuse box, or to the battery ( + ) terminal.
IMPORTANT - FOR SAFETY, DO NOT INCREASE THE LENGTH OF THE RED WIRE.
IMPORTANT - DO NOT PLUG IN THE FUSE UNTIL ALL OTHER CONNECTIONS ARE MADE.
2. 8-wire connector, BLACK WIRE (to chassis ground), fig. 1
Choose a good chassis ground location. This is the most important point of a successful installation. A poor ground connection will cause the siren to continuously emit a low siren sound whenever the alarm is armed.
Use one of the car's factory bolts to connect to chassis ground. If none is available, scrape paint and dirt from the metal surface, and use a grounding lug and star washer.
3. 8-wire connector, PINK WIRE (to siren), fig. 2
- Mount the siren under the hood to the vehicle's metal body. Mount as close to the grill as possible for best sound. The siren must not touch the engine. Mount with the mouth facing down so water will not collect inside the siren.
- Connect the siren's BLACK WIRE directly to the vehicle's metal chassis. Scrape paint from the metal surface, and use a factory grounding bolt or a star washer.
- Connect the alarm's PINK WIRE directly to the siren's RED WIRE.
4. 8-wire connector, 3 x ORANGE WIRES (to flash pos. or neg. parking lights), fig. 3
- Determine if the parking lights are positively or negatively switched - Using a VOM meter, test the wires coming from the parking light switch. Look for a wire which changes polarity when the parking lights are turned on:
- Positive (+) parking light system - If a wire goes to +12VDC when the parking lights are turned on, but is not + 12VDC with the parking lights turned off, this is the (+) parking light wire. (See fig. 3a)
- Negative (-) parking light system - If a wire goes to ground when the parking lights are turned on, but is not ground with the parking lights turned off, this is the (-) parking light wire. (See fig. 3b)
- Most vehicles have (+) parking light systems. A few (mainly Japanese) have (-) parking light systems (the (-) signal usually triggers a relay to send +12VDC to the parking lights).
- If the voltage on the (+) or (-) parking light wire varies when you dim or brighten the interior lights, then this is not the correct wire.
- Connect the fused ORANGE WIRE
- Positive (+) parking light system - Connect the fused ORANGE WIRE directly to a source of un switched +12VDC at the fuse box
- Negative (-) parking light system - Connect the fused ORANGE WIRE directly to a solid chassis ground
- Connect 1 or 2 non-fused ORANGE WIREs
- Single-wire parking light systems - Most vehicles have a single circuit which controls all parking lights In this case, connect both non-fused ORANGE WIREs to the (+) or (-) parking light wire
- Dual-wire parking light systems - A few vehicles (mainly European) have separate circuits for the parking lights on the right and left sides of the vehicle
In this case, connect one non fused ORANGE WIRE to the right-side circuit, and the other to the left-side circuit (See fig 3c)
- NOTE - Dual Power Protection (DPP) - When you connect the fused ORANGE WIRE to +12V, it serves as a second power source for the alarm brain in case the fused RED WIRE is cut by thieves or vandals. For such protection, make sure the fused ORANGE WIRE is connected to a separate source of +12VDC from the fused RED WIRE
5. 8-wire connector, BROWN/BLACK WIRE (2nd-step door unlock negative output)
This wire provides optional 2-step door unlock If used, when transmitter button #1 is pressed one time to disarm the alarm and unlock the doors, only the driver door unlocks. However, if the transmitter button #1 is pressed again within one second, all the other doors unlock.
This wire connects to the passenger door unlock wire via an additional relay, in most cases. Actual connection varies from car to car. For more information, please consult wiring diagrams provided by the car manufacturer or third party references.
6. 8-wire connector, BROWN/WHITE WIRE (3rd channel auxiliary negative output), fig. 4
- Operation - Outputs 300mA transistor ground for as long as button #3 is pressed, whether the alarm is armed or not.
- Connection - Connect the BROWN/ WHITE WIRE to a 30A relay to control a trunk release or other accessory. NEVER CONNECT THE BROWN/WHITE WIRE DIRECTLY TO AN OPTIONAL ACCESSORY, AS THIS WILL BURN OUT THE 3RD CHANNEL OUTPUT, AND POSSIBLY THE ENTIRE ALARM BRAIN.
7. 6-wire connector, BLACK/WHITE WIRE (2nd channel auxiliary negative output), fig. 5
Supplies a 300mA transistor ground output for as long as button #2 is pressed for 3 seconds, when the alarm is disarmed. For safety, 2nd channel output operates only:
- If the ignition switch is OFF; or
- If a car door is open while the ignition switch is ON.
8. 6-wire connector, GRAY/BLACK WIRE (domel ight neg. output), fig. 6
- Output - Supplies a 300mA transistor ground output, When the alarm is disarmed, the GRAY/BLACK WIRE outputs steady 300mA for 30 seconds, or until the ignition key is turned ON.
- Connection - Connect the GRAY/BLACK WIRE via a 30A relay to the domel ights. NEVER CONNECT THE GRAY/BLACK WIRE DIRECTLY TO THE domel ightS, AS THIS WILL BURN OUT THE domel ight OUTPUT, AND POSSIBLY THE ENTIRE ALARM BRAIN.
9. 6-wire connector, BLUE WIRE (negative door trigger input), fig. 6
- Existing car door switches - Use a VOM meter to locate a wire (usually in the driver's kick panel) which shows ground when any vehicle door is opened, and which is not ground when all the doors are closed. Connect to the BLUE WIRE.
- If the vehicle (such as a delivery van) has no existing car door switches - Mount a pin switch in every door you wish to protect. Connect each switch to the BLUE WIRE.
10. 6-wire connector, PURPLE WIRE (positive door trigger input), fig. 6 (or to neg. external accessory, fig. 7)
This wire can be connected to positive door triggers, or to external accessories such as spare tires or fog lamps, but not both. See page 1 7 for programming this wire.
- Existing pos. car door switches (fig. 6) - Use a VOM meter to locate a wire (usually in the driver's kick panel) which shows + 12VDC when any vehicle door is opened, and which is not + 12VDC when all the doors are closed. Connect to the PURPLE WIRE.
- Externally-mounted accessory (fig. 7) - For external accessories such as fog lights or spare tires, make sure the accessory is grounded. Then connect the PURPLE WIRE to the accessory so that the wire is always grounded. If a thief removes the accessory, that will break the ground connection and trigger the alarm.
11. 6-wire connector, BLUE/WHITE WIRE (neg. hood/trunk trigger input), fig. 8
- If the vehicle has a trunk light - Use a VOM meter to locate a wire which shows ground with the trunk open, and which is not ground with the trunk closed. Mount a pin switch in the hood. Connect as shown in fig. 8a. Don't forget the diode.
- If the vehicle has no existing hood or trunk switches - Mount a pin switch in both the hood and trunk (see fig. 8b).
12. 6-wire connector, YELLOW WIRE (ignition switch positive input)
Connect to a fuse or wire which outputs + 12VDC when the ignition key is in the ON and START position, but not the ACC position. This wire must be connected at all times to ensure proper arming and disarming, as well as to operate the push-button switch for valet, emergency disarm, and temporary disarm.
13. 2-wire connector, WHITE WIRES (to starter disable), fig. 9
No external relay needed for most engines.
- Locate the starter solenoid wire (carries power from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid). This wire must show + 12VDC only when the ignition is in the start position.
- Cut the starter solenoid wire.
- Test the starter solenoid wire as follows:
- If the wire is cut before the engine is started, the engine should not turn over.
- If the wire is cut while the engine is running, it should not affect the engine's operation.
- Connect the WHITE WIRE to the two halves of the cut starter solenoid wire.
14. 2-pin RED connector, PLUG-IN LED, fig. 10
- Determine where to mount - The LED should be easily seen by potential thieves and vandals. However, do NOT mount where the LED is easily exposed to sunlight. Discuss the location with the customer before mounting.
- Drill a 1/4" hole in the LED location.
- Run the LED connector through the hole, and then plug into the alarm brain.
IMPORTANT - DO NOT CONNECT THE LED DIRECTLY TO THE CAR'S BATTERY, OR THE LED WILL BURN OUT.
15. 2-pin WHITE connector, PLUG-IN VELT BUTTON (push button), fig. 10
- Determine where to mount - Location is not important for security, as the VELT switch cannot be used without the ignition key. It should be hidden from view, yet easily accessible by the user in an emergency. IT IS IMPORTANT THE USER EASILY REMEMBERS THE BUTTON'S LOCATION.
- Drill a 9/32" hole where the VELT switch will be mounted.
- Run the VELT switch connector through the hole, and then plug into the alarm brain.
16. 4-pin connector, DUAL-STAGE SHOCK SENSOR (each zone adjusts independently) YELLOW WIRE (pre-intrusion input) BLACK WIRE (ground output) BLUE WIRE (aux. sensor trigger input) RED WIRE (+12VDC output) Figs. 11 to 13
- Install the included shock sensor:
- Cable-tie the sensor securely to at least two points under the dash. Do not screw it to metal. Mount so you can reach the adjustment pods. (NOTE - The shock sensor can be mounted at any angle.)
- Plug the sensor into the alarm brain's 4-pin connector.
- Set sensitivity:
- Setting the pre-intrusion stage - Turn the red knob (secondary adjuster for trigger output) to minimum before adjusting the yellow knob. Now, lightly tap the vehicle. If pre-intrusion output is set correctly, the yellow LED should come ON (the siren chirps & parking light flash 5 times), but the red LED should not. If the yellow LED does not come on, turn the yellow pot clockwise to increase sensitivity. To reduce sensitivity, turn the yellow knob counter-clockwise.
- Setting the trigger (2nd) stage - Hit the vehicle hard enough to trigger the alarm. At correct sensitivity, both yellow and red LEDs should come on. If not, adjust the red knob to either increase or decrease sensitivity.
- When sensitivity is set to minimum, the shock sensor is turned OFF, and cannot trigger the alarm.
- When sensitivity is set to maximum, the shock sensor is very sensitive. This may cause unnecessary chirps and/or false alarms.
- The shock sensor and auxiliary sensors will not trigger the alarm until 4 seconds after the alarm is armed and no further motion is detected.
- To connect more than one SECO-LARM dual-stage shock, microwave, or glass break sensor, splice the wires of the connectors together, or use an SR-199-315 Y-connector (fig. 12).
- To install non-SECO-LARM auxiliary sensors - Splice to the shock sensor's wire harness (fig. 1 3). For single-stage sensors, do not use the YELLOW WIRE.
IMPORTANT - These four wires are transistor +12VDC or ground inputs and outputs with max. ratings of 300mA. Take care when connecting accessories to these wires.
17. Jack with BLACK CABLE, DUAL-STAGE GLASS-BREAK SENSOR
- Install the remote microphone - Screw or tape under the dashboard where it is out of sight, yet can pick up the sound of glass breaking from any of the car's windows. Plug it into the alarm brain.
- Set sensitivity
- Adjusting the sensor control knob affects both the 1st and 2nd stage sensitivity
- Test the pre-intrusion (1st stage) by lightly shaking a set of keys once. This should cause the siren to chirp but not trigger. Adjust the sensitivity by turning the adjustment knob clockwise (more sensitive) or counter clockwise (less sensitive)
- Next, test the trigger (2nd stage) sensitivity by continuously shaking a set of keys firmly inside the car. The alarm should trigger
- When trigger sensitivity is set to minimum, the sensor cannot trigger the alarm
- With sensitivity set to maximum, the sensor is very sensitive. This may cause unnecessary chirps and/or false alarms.
- The glass-break sensor will not trigger the alarm until 4 seconds after the alarm is armed
18. 3-pin connector
GRAY WIRE (ground output to lock, + 12VDC output to unlock)
RED WIRE (+12VDC output)
BROWN WIRE (ground output to unlock, +12VDC output to lock)
Figs. 14 to 20
These wires let the alarm control the power door lock/unlock systems of most vehicles without external relays . However, one or two relays may be required in some cases
The alarm has a built in timer which is pre set for 0.7 seconds It can be programmed for 3. 5 seconds.
Types of door lock/unlock systems - At the time this manual was completed, there were seven common types of power door lock/ unlock systems in use.
- Negative relay switching to factory actuators (fig. 14) - The factory door lock switch has 3 wires. One wire always shows ground. The LOCK WIRE becomes ground when the door is locked, and sends a pulse to a factory relay to lock the doors. The UNLOCK WIRE becomes ground when the door is unlocked, and sends a pulse to a factory relay to unlock the doors. Most Japanese cars use this system. THIS IS THE MOST COMMON TYPE OF POWER DOOR LOCK SYSTEM
- Positive relay switching to factory actuators (fig. 15) - The factory door lock switch has 3 wires. One wire always shows +12VDC. The LOCK WIRE becomes +12VDC when the door is locked to pulse a factory relay to lock the doors. The UNLOCK WIRE becomes +12VDC when the door is unlocked to pulse a factory relay to unlock the doors. Most General Motors cars use this system.
- Positive reversal switching to factory actuators (fig. 16) - The factory door lock switch typically has 5 wires. Two wires always show ground, and one always shows +12VDC. The LOCK WIRE shows ground at rest and during unlock, but shows +12VDC when the door is locked. The UNLOCK WIRE shows ground at rest and during lock, but shows +12VDC when the door is unlocked. Many GM trucks, Fords, and Chryslers use this.
- Single wire, polarity switching (fig. 1 7) - The factory door lock switch uses a single wire to control the door lock and unlock operation. The single LOCK/UNLOCK WIRE shows ground when the doors lock, and + 12VDC when they unlock. This is found on most Mercedes Benz and on some other European cars.
- Single wire, positive shunt switching (fig. 18) - This system uses a single wire to activate the door locks. Applying +12VDC on the LOCK/UNLOCK WIRE causes the doors to unlock, and removing the +12VDC (not applying ground) causes the doors to lock. Found on some Ford Probes.
- Single wire, negative shunt switching (fig. 19) - This system uses a single wire to activate the door locks. Applying ground on the LOCK/UNLOCK WIRE causes the doors to unlock, and removing the ground (not applying +12VDC) causes the doors to lock. Found on some Mazdas and Nissans.
Note: The ENFORCER SR-5201 R can be used in place of relays in certain door lock circuits that require them. This module can save time and space.
- Aftermarket door lock actuators (fig. 20) - If the vehicle does not have power door locks, install aftermarket actuators according to the supplier's instructions. (If the vehicle has power door locks on all doors except the driver's door, install one aftermarket actuator on the driver's door. Includes some Volvos, SAABs, and assorted Japanese models.)
- Program the alarm for switch sensing only, or for both current & switch sensing
- Current sensing does not trigger the alarm until 4 seconds after the alarm is armed
- If the alarm is programmed for current sensing, but does not detect the opening of a door, it is possible the domel ights do not draw enough current. In this case, try a brighter domel ight (check the vehicle manufacturer's specifications), or connect a non-polarized capacitor (47mkF or larger) in parallel across the domel ight
- Note regarding current sensing
- If the domel ight burns out or is constantly left ON, the alarm will not detect the doors opening
- If current sensing and passive arming are desired, connect the door pin switches to the alarm. Otherwise the alarm will not arm properly.
||+ 12VDC, 2 À
||Relay rated at 15A max
||On-board 30A DPST relay, 2 wires (COM & NC)
||15mA, transistor ground
||3 wires (each 300mA, one is + 12VDC, two flip-flip positive/negative)
||300mA transistor ground
||300mA transistor ground
||300mA transistor ground
||300mA transistor ground
- Negative input for door
- Positive input for door (can be programed for NC negative for external accessories)
- Negative input for hood/trunk
- Negative input for sensor trigger
- Negative input for sensor pre-alert
- Ignition switch sensing
- Current sensing
- Built-in glass-break sensor (+/-) for parking light
||315MHz for ENFORCER
433 92MHz for ENFORCER
||Over 18 quintillion possible codes (ENFORCER 300C/300C-4) or over 68 billion possible codes(ENFORCER300L/300L-4)
||+9VDC ~ +14VDC
||Under 20mA (armed, LED flashing)
||30 seconds (passive arming)
||None (10 sec under emergency disarm)
||30-second cycle, max 4 cycles
ALARM FEATURE PROGRAMMING
The Enforcer 300C/300L is programmed via eight DIP switches on the alarm brain.
The various functions are programmed by turning the DIP switches on and off with a pointed object such as an awl. Refer to Table 1 to see which functions are controlled by which DIP switches.
Table 1 - Chart of DIP switch programming function:
||Set active/passive arming
||Active/passive lock with passive arming
||No ign. auto-lock
||Doors lock when ignition turned on
||Set for chirp or no chirp on arm/disarm
||Lock/unlock time 0.7 sec.
||Lock/unlock time 3.5 sec.
||Timing depends on vehicle
||Automatic Starter Disable
||N.O. + trigger
||N.C. - trigger
||Function on the purple wire
||Switch sensing only
||Current and switch sensing
||See current sensing notes before use
VELT BUTTON (push button) FUNCTIONS
The VELT button is a 4-function push button switch. It is used for entering and exiting the valet mode, emergency disarm, one-time override of passive arming, and code learning.
Table 2 shows the various functions of the VELT button and how they are used.
Table 2 - Chart of VELT button operation:
||Enter and exit valet mode
||One-time override of passive arming
||Learn codes (enter code learning mode)
|Enter valet mode
|| Exit valet mode
||Armed or triggered
||Disarmed & open a door
||Turn from OFF or ON
||Turn from OFF or ON
||Turn from OFF or ON
||Press 1 time
||Press 1 time
||Press 1 time
||Press 1 time
||Press 3 time within 15 sec. of ignition OFF
||Chirp 2 times & flash 2 times
||Chirp once after VELT pressed 3rd time
||The alarm is now in the valet mode
||The alarm is now disarmed
||The alarm is now in the disarm mode
||Will not arm for one time
||Now in the code learning mode
||Disengage - turn ign. ON or use transmitter
||See CODE LEARNING procedure for next step
LEARNING THE TRANSMITTERS (E-300C/L)
The alarm can learn a max of 4 remotes RF Code Wash deletes all previous remotes when any new remote is learned. This prevents unauthorized use of lost or stolen transmitters, and alerts the user if someone has secretly code learned a new transmitter. However, it also means that, when code learning is being done, ALL THE USER'S TRANSMITTERS MUST BE CODE LEARNED AT THE SAME TIME
- Disarm the alarm
- Open a car door
- Turn the ignition switch on and then off three times
- Press the VELT button three times within 15 seconds of turning the ignition off the third time. The siren chirps once
- Within 15 seconds, push button #1 of the first transmitter to be learned. At this time, all previous codes are deleted, and the alarm learns this transmitter's code. 1 chirp confirms code learned (If no button is pressed within this 15-second period, code learning is exited, and old codes are retained )
- Within 15 seconds, push button #1 of the second transmitter to be learned (if applicable) 1 chirp confirms learned
- Repeat step (5) until all transmitters are learned. The siren chirps once for each transmitter when its code is successfully learned
- Exit the code learning procedure - The alarm chirps the siren two times, exits the code learning mode, and is disarmed after learning the fourth transmitter's code, or if you turn the ignition switch on, or if you do nothing for 15 seconds
- Enforcer 300C vs Enforcer 300L - The Enforcer 300C uses SECO-LARM's CODEBUMP code-hopping system. All transmitters come coded by the factory, and cannot be recoded by the installer or user. The Enforcer 300L uses fixed-code transmitters
TIPS FOR TESTING THE ALARM
- Testing RF reception and range - To test if the alarm brain is receiving signals from the RF transmitter, and to test range, watch the alarm status LED. The LED should turn on steady as long as any button on the RF transmitter is being pressed. If the LED does not turn on, this means the alarm brain is not receiving the transmitter signal
- Testing wire connections - Often, when trying to trace a problem between a trigger input, wiring, and the alarm brain, one place to test is at the alarm brain itself. Set the VOM for (+) or (-), depending on the trigger, then probe the appropriate wire near the alarm brain while testing the trigger. For instance, to determine why a (-) door trigger is not working, probe and test the BLUE WIRE of the 6-pin connector near that connector. If the BLUE wire shows (-) when the door is opened, then the problem may be caused by the user not arming the alarm correctly, or the alarm brain may be defective. But if the BLUE wire does not show (-) when the door is opened, the problem may be a loose or defective pin switch or wire connection
- Sensor delay times - The various sensors have a short 4-second delay from the time the alarm is armed until the sensor can be triggered. Therefore, after arming the alarm, wait until after the delay period before testing the sensor to be sure that sensor is operating properly
See page 19 for testing tips.
|Poor transmitter range
- Low or dead transmitter battery.
- Metal of car body reflecting RF waves.
- RF interference.
|Replace the battery Mount alarm brain in another location. Fold or roll up (do not cut) alarm brain antenna.
|Transmitter LED doesn't flash when button pushed
- Loose battery connection.
- Low or dead transmitter battery.
- Defective transmitter.
|Make sure battery contact with clip is tight and clean. Replace the battery. Replace the transmitter.
|Transmitter not work when siren sounding.
||Alarm brain too close to siren.
||Increase the distance between siren and alarm brain, and make sure the two are not grounded together.
|Alarm not respond to pressing transmitter button.
||Transmitter not matched to alarm.
||Re-code the transmitter.
|Under passive arming (switch sensing), siren does not chirp when the last door/hood/trunk is closed.
||Door/hood/trunk pin switch not connected, or broken, or its height is not adjusted properly.
||Check blue or blue/white wire (depending on which switch) of brain with VOM. If ground when door or hood or trunk open, and not when dosed, then problem with wire harness or brain. Otherwise, check switch, wire, or connection.
|Under passive arming (current sensing), siren does not chirp when the last door/hood/trunk is closed.
||Not a problem - With current sensing, alarm can only detect open doors, not dosed doors.
||Remind your customer about the feature, or program it off.
|Not all doors trigger the alarm.
||Door switches are isolated by diodes.
||Connect trigger wire to under-dash courtesy lights, or connect individual pin switches to each door.
|Too many false alarms.
||* Shock or glass-break sensor, or door pin switches, or current sensing.
||Reduce shock/glass-break sensor sensitivity, and double-check all door and hood/trunk pin switches.
|When alarm triggered, pressing transmitter shuts siren and lights OFF, but alarm stays armed
||Patented Stay-Safe Disarm
||This is a feature of the alarm, and not a problem.
|More than one chirp when arming (active mode).
||Alarm detects open circuit, does zone bypass.
||Check all openings to see which is not closed properly.
|Siren does not chirp.
||Set for chirp delete.
||Reprogram to restore chirp.
|Siren chirps or LED flashes while driving.
||Yellow wire of 10-pin connector loose.
||Check the connection.
|Siren continually emits a strange quiet sound
||Poor alarm brain ground.
||Check the alarm brain ground for good contact, and make sure it is not grounded together with siren.
|Cut main power wire (red wire), and alarm looses power.
||Fused orange wire and fused red wire connected to the same source.
||Connect these two wires to separate sources of + 12VDC. (Feature not available for (-) parking light systems).
|Testing of hardwired zone, on-board or auxiliary sensor, or current sensor does not trigger alarm.
||Tried to test the triggers too soon after the alarm was armed.
||Wait 4 sec. (hardwired triggers) or 10 sec (current sense) after arming before testing.
|Engine does not start and LED is steady on after car has sat for some time with alarm disarmed.
||Automatic Starter Disable is engaged
||Remind your customer how Automatic Starter Disable works, or program it off.